Installing Floor Heating Mats is very simple. The sub-floor shall be covered with flooring installer’s underlay and insulation board. Floor Heating Mat or Cables are laid and fixed on top and covered with 5mm thin set or adhesive latex before laying the tiles.

Yes. However final electrical connections are required to be done by a qualified Electrician.

The total thickness of the Floor Heating Mat is between 2.5 to 4mm depending upon the model you select.

The Floor Heating System is designed so that the floor surface will be comfortably warm and will never get hot to walk on. Thermostat regulates the floor temperature when the floor gets to the required temperature by switching OFF and switching ON if it begins to cool – thus keeping a regulated temperature.

Yes, The Thermostat allows you to change the temperature setting. Also please see the information on the thermostat/its manual.

Generally within an hour with a standard insulation board. It may take longer if insulation not used and with thicker flooring.

For single connections within 3.6KW load, can be directly connected to the thermostats we supply. However for loads above 3.6KW, thermostat is required to be wired in a control circuit to control two or more sub-power circuits as required. A qualified Electrician must make the electrical connections.

Yes. Electrical Floor Heating System can be used as the only heat source and will provide comfortable heating for any internal room of a well-insulated construction. However you can check up with your architect or a HVAC specialist.

Our Floor Heating Products are backed by 10 years guarantee against manufacturing defects if any.

No, Not at all if the cables are covered with Screed or Filler. If not, the tiler would need to take care so that he does not damage the cable in any way when applying the adhesive. He will also need to use slightly more adhesive than normal to allow for covering the floor heating cables.

No, Heat tracing is primarily used for temperature maintenance. Heat-ups in short periods of time (minutes to a few hours) will most likely require more heat than that needed to maintain the temperature at the desired temperature above ambient. You have to go for heating panels/heaters.

No, Heat losses without thermal insulation are very high and not practical to compensate for with heat tracing.

Yes. Pipe supports (un-insulated), Flanges and Valves require additional heat by providing extra length of heat tracer or heating cable as these areas have high heat loss.

No, you cannot consider heat tracing of nonmetallic Pipes and vessels same as that of metallic Pipes and vessels. The heat tracer or heating cable sheath temperature shall be below the maximum temperature rating of the Pipe or vessel material. Also heat from the tracer does not transfer easily into a non-metallic material. You have to use heat reflective foils or heat transfer aids to increase the heat transfer to non-metallic Pipes and vessels.

It is a state of thermal dynamics where the thermal equilibrium means a stabilized temperature as a result of the heat input equal to the heat loss.

Sheath temperature is the surface temperature of the heat tracer or heating cable.

Installing the cable on top of the Pipe is not recommended. This may lead to mechanical damage, as the Pipe is susceptible to stamping because of personnel walking on Pipe or any tool/material falling from a height in an industrial atmosphere. The ideal location is installing the heat tracer at bottom side at about 30° – 60° angle from horizontal plain.

You can do so only in case of Thermotrace – CTL, which is a parallel type of heat tracer and can be cut to desired length (nearest integer) within its maximum circuit length declared.

You need to isolate both the bus wires by properly insulating them and provide the power connection kit or end connection kit provided with tracer termination kits. Never allow any bare metal (bus wire or heating element) falling out of the insulation or touching each other, which will cause a short circuit.

Heat Tracer or heating cable will always be ON if a thermostat is not used, which will result in continuous energy consumption and increased electricity bill. However for small load, we can avoid a thermostat provided a suitable rating heat tracer is recommended by the manufacturer / system provider based on ‘stabilised design’